What causes frizz in hair? The complete scientific guide

Hair loss, also known as frizz, is one of the most common and frustrating problems for those seeking even, soft, and manageable hair . Almost all hair types experience this problem, although fine hair and/or hair with loose curls is more vulnerable.

While humidity is the main factor we blame, it's not the only culprit for frizz . In this article, we explore the causes of frizz from a scientific perspective and analyze how various factors can affect hair structure and health.

What causes frizz?

Frizz can occur naturally, as it does in curly hair due to the flattening of the fiber, but it can also occur when hair ages and turns gray, or when hair is damaged. This damage can be caused by several factors, including:

1. Chemical treatments such as coloring and bleaching.
2. Exposure to UV radiation , pollution, extreme environments, humidity.
3. Excessive and/or poor brushing .
4. Excessive use of thermal tools .
5. Use of synthetic clothing : hats, scarves, etc.
6. Hair cleansing that is not respectful of the hair , more aggressive treatments.

All of these factors can contribute significantly to frizz.

Hair damage causes frizz, why?

To understand why hair damage causes frizz , we need to study the hair's structure . The hair follicle is connected to the sebaceous gland, and just before the hair emerges through the follicular opening, the sebaceous gland secretes a protective secretion called the F layer, a structure formed by 18MEA (methyl eicosanoic acid).

This protective F layer, lipid in nature, has protective and aesthetic functions : it makes the hair waterproof and repels water, protects it from UV radiation and detergents, and provides shine and that feeling of healthy hair that we always appreciate. The state of this F layer will protect the hair, increasing or decreasing the diffusion of active ingredients from the inside to the outside and vice versa. We must always remember that this protection cannot be recovered.

If this protective layer, or F layer, is removed, the cuticle, the outermost layer of the hair and the most cosmetically interesting, is exposed . The hair cuticle is composed of overlapping cells similar to the shingles on a roof. In healthy hair, these cells lie flat and tightly packed. However, damage causes these cells to lift and separate, allowing water to penetrate more easily and react with the functional groups, increasing the likelihood of frizz.

Hydrogen bonds are essential for maintaining hair's shape. Under normal conditions, these bonds hold the amino acid groups in keratin chains together. However, when the cuticle is severely damaged and humidity is intense, these bonds can break and new ones can form, disrupting hair's uniformity and leading to frizz . Just think of those last few days at the beach when your hair is drier and how we notice the change that humidity produces in our hair more.

And when we talk about frizz, we're also talking about electrostatic charges, since hair naturally has a negative charge. Dry and damaged hair accumulates an excess of negative electrostatic charges, causing strands to repel each other, resulting in frizz and static electricity.

Do anti-frizz products really work?

The most common anti-frizz products are synthetic cationic polymers known as "polyquats," such as Polyquaternium 7 and Polyquaternium 10. Cationic polymers are high-molecular-weight, positively charged macromolecules that temporarily neutralize the negative charge on the hair's surface. In addition to improving its appearance, they help protect hair from external aggressions and make it easier to brush, minimizing breakage.

82% of shampoos launched worldwide contain these types of polymers. However, the depletion of natural resources, water scarcity, waste generation, and air pollution have led to the development of more sustainable options in recent years .

Among the most sustainable options available today , we highlight Hemi-Squalane and also "Green Quats," whose performance is comparable to that of synthetic polyquats. They form a film on the hair's surface, improving the condition of the cuticle and improving sensory properties such as softness, manageability, and shine.

The use of hemi-equalane, a 100% natural active ingredient derived from sugarcane, has been shown to reduce frizz, facilitate styling, and protect against breakage. Today, it's considered the most natural alternative to silicones, which is why it's featured in our hair care line, both in the H09 Mask and H10 Sublime Oil.

Oils also provide a temporary protective layer that prevents water from penetrating the cuticle and causing frizz . Some oils can penetrate beyond the cuticle and offer deeper protection, although many remain on the surface and are easily washed away during washing, making innovative formulas essential.

Interim solutions

All of these solutions we've detailed for controlling frizz are temporary; they are eliminated with washing. To effectively combat frizz, it's crucial to restore the hair's protective lipid barrier daily and address the damage at the root.

Today there are professional treatments that achieve more permanent control.

Conclusion

Frizz is a complex problem influenced by multiple factors, including humidity, hair damage, and electrostatic charges. While anti-frizz products may offer temporary solutions, they are a very good care option. However, the key to soft, manageable hair at home lies in keeping the hair fiber in top condition and protecting it . A good beauty routine to restore the lipid barrier and protect hair from further damage are essential steps to reducing frizz long-term.

We hope this guide has given you a deeper understanding of the causes of frizz and how to manage it. Take care of your hair and keep frizz at bay!