How to eliminate scalp flaking

Dandruff is a common problem that affects both hair health and aesthetics. It manifests as visible flaking, itching, and sometimes redness. While it is usually not serious, it can become a chronic problem that affects well-being and confidence.

The good news is that, with an appropriate care routine and specific products, it is possible to control dandruff, reduce itching, and prevent outbreaks of seborrheic dermatitis.

"Dead skin cells on the scalp shed as tiny, invisible flakes. This process is comparable to what happens on the skin and is a normal process unless there is inflammation or a condition that increases this shedding," Modesta Cassinello.

What is scalp flaking and why does it occur?

Dandruff is defined as a chronic, generally non-inflammatory flaking of the scalp. It affects between 30% and 50% of the population at some point in their lives and tends to appear after puberty, peaking in the second and third decades of life.

It is more common in winter, when cold and dry weather alters the skin barrier, and usually improves in summer thanks to moderate sun exposure and less microbial proliferation.

Main causes

• Microbiome imbalance: excessive proliferation of Malassezia fungi, such as M. restricta, which metabolize sebum, producing irritating free fatty acids.
• Skin barrier alteration: the stratum corneum becomes thinner and cell renewal accelerates, leading to visible flakes.

Predisposing factors:

• Excess sebum.
• Emotional stress.
• Use of harsh shampoos or alkaline soaps.
• Hormonal changes.
• Cold and dry climates.
  

In many cases, dandruff is the mildest manifestation of seborrheic dermatitis (SD), a chronic inflammatory condition that can be associated with redness, intense itching, and even temporary hair loss.

Dry dandruff vs. oily dandruff: differences and treatment

Not all dandruff is the same. We can distinguish two main forms:

• Dry dandruff: fine, white, dry flakes that shed easily and fall onto clothes. It usually appears on drier, sensitized, or dehydrated scalps. There is not always excess sebum or visible inflammation.
• Oily dandruff: larger, yellowish flakes, often adhering to the scalp, on a greasy or slightly reddened base. It is the most common in seborrheic dermatitis.
  

Treatment

Dry dandruff:

• Use mild and hydrating shampoos.
• Avoid very harsh or excessive washing.
• Look for soothing ingredients like panthenol, niacinamide, and postbiotics to strengthen the skin barrier.
  

Oily dandruff:

• Use antifungal or sebum-regulating shampoos.
• Alternate with mild shampoos, such as H01 Frequent Use Shampoo or H05 Solid Shampoo, to maintain balance without irritation.
• Perform occasional deep cleanses, such as with H07 Sea Salt Shampoo, to remove excess oil and prevent outbreaks.
  

Whenever flaking persists, it is advisable to consult a dermatologist for diagnosis and individualized treatment.

Differences between dandruff, psoriasis, or dermatitis

• Dandruff: white or yellowish flakes, without intense inflammation.
• Seborrheic dermatitis: red areas, greasy flakes adhering to the scalp, irritation, and possible intense itching.
• Psoriasis: thick, silvery, well-defined plaques, possible involvement in other body areas.
• Atopic dermatitis: more dryness, intense itching, and a history of atopy.
  

If you have persistent flaking, intense redness, or hair loss, consult a dermatologist for an accurate diagnosis.

Common factors: stress, harsh products, sebum imbalance

Dandruff can be an adaptive response to irritation. This irritation can be due to:

• Harsh products (shampoos with strong surfactants, alkaline soaps).
• Excess sebum, due to sebaceous gland hyperactivity or ineffective oil removal during cleansing. In both cases, this excess sebum feeds Malassezia.
• Emotional stress, which impacts the immune system and barrier function.
  

Therefore, the use of mild, microbiome-friendly shampoos is key in both treatment and prevention.

Scalp itching and flaking: how it affects your well-being

Suffering from dandruff and itching on the scalp is not just an aesthetic issue. It can cause:

• Irritation and physical discomfort.
• Insecurity or social embarrassment.
• Excessive scratching with the risk of micro-injuries and infections.
• Negative emotional impact, especially in persistent cases.

Addressing dandruff is not just a cosmetic issue, but a step towards holistic well-being.

How to effectively treat scalp flaking

The treatment of dandruff and seborrheic dermatitis usually includes:

Recognized active ingredients

Six ingredients are scientifically supported and recognized as safe and effective for the treatment of dandruff and seborrheic dermatitis:

• Selenium sulfide (SeS₂): reduces Malassezia, balances the microbiome.
• Zinc pyrithione (ZPT): antifungal and anti-inflammatory.
• Ketoconazole: effective against Malassezia, also reduces sebum.
• Climbazole: antifungal used outside the US with good efficacy.
• Salicylic acid: keratolytic, helps remove flakes.
• Coal tar: decreases cell proliferation, although it is now disused due to its smell and possible side effects.
  

However, the continuous use of these medicated shampoos is not recommended indefinitely, as they can alter the natural balance of the scalp.

Changes in washing and care routine

• Alternate treatment shampoos with mild shampoos.
• Avoid excessively hot water.
• Do not scratch to avoid micro-injuries.
• Respect the exposure times of medicated shampoo.
• Maintain hydration and skin barrier care.

Soothing and repairing ingredients to look for

• Panthenol (Pro-vitamin B5): hydrates and soothes.
• Niacinamide: anti-inflammatory and strengthens the skin barrier.
• Bisabolol: natural soothing agent.
• Zinc PCA: regulates excess sebum.
  

When to see a dermatologist

• Persistent or severe flaking.
• Intense redness.
• Pain, scabs, or discharge.
• Significant hair loss.
• Lack of response to treatments after 4-6 weeks.
  

Recommended care routine for scalps with flaking

The key to controlling dandruff is a routine that combines clinical efficacy and respect for scalp balance. Here is a routine integrating your professional shampoos:

Routine during active flare-up

Anti-dandruff shampoo 2-3 times/week. A shampoo with active ingredients such as ketoconazole, SeS₂, ZPT, or climbazole, to reduce Malassezia and inflammation.

Combine or alternate with:

H01 Frequent Use Shampoo

• Ideal for alternating with treatment shampoos.
• Gentle and respectful cleansing.
• Preserves the microbiome and prevents scalp dryness.
  

H05 Solid Shampoo

• Sustainable and gentle option.
• Perfect for alternating with anti-dandruff treatments.
• Respects the natural balance of the scalp.
• Maintenance and prevention (after the flare-up)
  

Maintenance and prevention routine (after the flare-up)

It is very important not to use medicated shampoos indefinitely once the flare-up is controlled, as they could irritate or sensitize the scalp.

Recommended routine:

H01 Frequent Use Shampoo: for daily use.

H05 Solid Shampoo: alternative for frequent use, especially for sensitive scalps or those who prefer solid format.

H07 Sea Salt Shampoo: 1-2 times/week: Deep scalp cleansing. Helps remove excess oil and residue. Prevents accumulated oil from leading to a new seborrheic dermatitis flare-up.

For other washes: use H01 or H05, according to your scalp's preferences and needs.

Advantages of integrating H01 Frequent Use Shampoo, H05 Solid Shampoo, and H07 Sea Salt Shampoo

• Maintain daily hygiene without aggression.
• Allow spacing the use of medicated shampoos until the scalp is balanced.
• Help preserve the microbiome and skin barrier.
• H07 provides extra cleaning without being aggressive or necessary daily.
• Professional formulas designed for scalps prone to flaking.

Prevention: tips to prevent flaking from recurring

• Wash your hair frequently, effectively and respectfully removing oil and sweat.
  
• Choose mild shampoos suitable for your scalp type, combined with shampoos that provide deeper yet respectful cleansing (e.g., H07 Sea Salt Shampoo)
  
• Control stress.
• Do not overuse irritating products or those with high alcohol content.
  

Conclusion: regaining balance is possible

Dandruff and seborrheic dermatitis are common problems, but you don't have to resign yourself to living with them. With the right combination of:

• Professional diagnosis.
• Medicated shampoos (when necessary).
• Gentle and respectful routine (H01 Frequent Use Shampoo and/or H05 Solid Shampoo).
• Deep and occasional cleansing (H07 Sea Salt Shampoo).
  

It is possible to keep flaking under control, reduce itching, and protect your scalp's health long-term to achieve healthy, shiny hair.

Remember: success lies in consistency and choosing products adapted to your skin's real needs.

Scientific references:

Kligman AM et al. Clinical and histological aspects of dandruff. 1983.
Kim S. et al. Understanding the characteristics of the scalp for developing scalp care products. J Cosmet Dermatol Sci Appl. 2021.
FDA OTC Monograph on Antidandruff Products.
Fajuyigbe et al. The effect of selenium sulfide shampoo on moderate-to-severe dandruff in different hair types. 2017.
Van Abbe NJ, Dean WB. The nature of dandruff. 1977.
Pierard-Franchimont et al. Sebum production and scalp disorders. 1997.

 

Each article is backed by the experience of our founder and CEO Dr. Modesta Cassinello, Doctor of Pharmacy and Diploma in Nutrition, committed to excellence in skin and hair care.